Guapulo Mass

Coming Home

Flying back to Quito takes most of a day'; either an uncomfortable red eye, or a day on the road. I resign myself to the journey, and I find myself busy and absorbed all the way, so it is not too painful. I am exhausted and exhilarated after the crazy week; I worked over 60 hours in five days!

I am so lucky to be at Emily's. I slept well, had lots of privacy up in the attic, and felt very much at home. I repacked in the morning, trying to leave as much behind as I could, but still found myself with an oversized bag and too much cash. Eric had urged me not to arrive in Quito with $900 in 20's and 10's, so on our way to the airport, we stopped at the nearby Starbuck's and bank. I deposited most of the money, and met a friend of Emily's whose child was in Nathan's class at school. Only after I shook hands and explained that I lived in Ecuador, did I realize that I knew the woman, that I had seen her and treated her in my practice some years ago. I said nothing, as if I did not recognize her, and she likely remembered me, so it was a strange experience. I am trying to remember who the busboy at the restaurant last night was from; was he a patient? Did I know him from yoga? Was he a barista at Starbucks? I know that I know him, but cannot figure it out. I wondered if this is what happens when one moves away, or was it my early dementia? 

I was worried that my flight was not really booked, since I had asked for the change late at night after our long delay Sunday night. But there was no problem and I was ready at my gate in good time. I had internet for a few minutes at the airport, and downloaded some books to read, and was swept up in the Trojan war for the trip to Houston. I read when I travel, perhaps that is why I love to travel, since I have so little time to read in my other life. On the other hand, I am free for the next three weeks to do as I wish, which may include reading, although I get so busy in my Ecuador life, that I have little free time anyway.

People ask me what I do in Ecuador, and I don't know what to answer, since I have no idea yet what my purpose is. So far, my energies have been devoted to getting our lives organized in our new apartment, but I don't have that excuse anymore, and ought to direct my energies to interesting pursuits. I wonder how my sisters manage to have day after day open and free to do anything at all for years and years and years; I am 35 years behind, having studied and worked and parented and taken care of so many people since medical school. I am not worried about this new approach to life, I just am appreciating the wonder at it all.

I wanted to catch up on my Coursera courses on History and Mythology, but was frustrated with the lack of internet in Houston. There is a way to get free internet after listening to an ad, but Boingo interrupted me each time. An ex 'agent' sat near me and talked about his son who is a successful musician and suffering through a divorce with a difficult ex-wife. He had much to tell me, and I was too polite to cut him off (being a psychiatrist encourages people to tell me far too much). Somehow the four hours between flights was shrunken to less than two, and duty free shopping and a search for healthy food took much of the rest of my wait. I finally listened to a couple lectures on my iPhone, and was incredibly excited about the beginning lines of the Odyssey, before announcements were made for boarding. I had hoped for internet on the flight, but none was available.

Instead, I read some more on my iPhone until it was dead, watched a little TV, avoided reading the 40 page real estate contract that I must review, and daydreamed.

I think I can do this, the back and forth to Baltimore. I liked seeing my patients, and paying my bills, spending time with Emily (next time I will see more friends and work less intensely). I look forward to Quito and the adventures we are likely to have, and in three weeks I will be back at Emily's, plunging into work and my Baltimore life again. I was not sure this would work, but it is working and I feel optimistic.

All Done, Home to Ecuador

Today was to be an 'easy day', and it was. I both love and hate seeing the dentist; 'love' because I like that clean teeth feeling, 'hate' because the cleaning hurts. I was convinced to buy a 'waterpik'; I have no  idea what it is or how it works, and will have to leave many clothes behind to fit the box int my suitcase. I am not sure the 'pik' is necessary, but now I have it. 

I saw several patients who I canceled on Monday; I was relieved that the patient hospitalized for hepatitis, likely due to her antidepressant, was being released. I was able to get the ballet store for Maya and buy what she had requested. I also bought tights and leotards for another ballet mother at Fundacion Danza who had requested them. Apparently the cost in Quito is prohibitive (tariffs, 'impuestos') Whatever is imported is far more costly than locally made goods, and ballet attire is not manufactured in Ecuador. I wanted to buy more and do more, but time was tight, and I was determined to leave the office without anything undone. 

Emily and I had a date at "La Tavola' in Little Italy. We made it in time, and had a delicious meal (except that the cannoli were made with pizzele). It was a relief to eat, to have a night off, to talk about whatever came to mind. For a while, I forgot that I live thousands of miles away and have just worked inhuman days for a week and should be toppling over. Baltimore felt like home, and I belonged here. Eric tells me I am in denial about moving, and today that was accurate, I felt as if I had never left. The night was balmy (the weather has been incredibly wonderful all week). I was certain I knew the restaurant busboy, in fact all sorts of people look familiar to me, and so many people recognize me, most of them familiar to me, but not necessarily recognizable. The same happens in Quito. I am convinced I know people I run into, and they appear to recognize me, but I cannot quite remember who they are. I wonder if this is normal or a sign of cognitive decline. IIn the past, would never forget a face. Eric asked me where we like to ride in Pululahua, and I remembered the name of the woman who ran a riding establishment so he was able to look her up on the internet; I impressed him with that one. Unfortunately,most of the time I do not know who people are that I ought to know.

I took way to0 long to pack, as if it really made a difference what I brought home, and what I left for our next visit. I guess that means that Quito is home. I visited our old house to see if it was ready for showing, and was uncomfortable with its uniform whiteness and the absolute extinction of us; the house is no longer ours, not in spirit at least, and its white and clean walls and empty rooms feel sad and forlorn. On the other hand it looks quite ready for a new family to inhabit. There is little reason not to sign the real estate contract except that it is 40 pages long and I have yet to read it. I was supposed to sign it and leave it for the real estate agent, but I told myself I had to read it first, another sign of denial and resistance to the inevitability of change. We have moved very far away, and will never live in the house again, and I have to let it go.

Fading

Thirteen Hour Office Days

Back Home?

Nightmare Air Travel

Medical School Reunion

Life is Normal

Papallacta

I learned late Friday that Maya had Monday and Tuesday off for Rosh Hashanah, so it was time to take a little vacation. Eric was exhausted upon his return from New Jersey/Baltimore, but I convinced him to take a couple of days off before starting to work in earnest. I wanted to try the train through the 'Avenue of the Volcanoes', but that meant getting up very early Saturday, and that was not going to happen. Maya had been urging us to go to the hot springs at Papallacta, so when Eric agreed, I quickly made reservations at Hostal Coturpa (much more affordable than the lodge we usually go to). Maya was less than thrilled when she heard we were taking the bus. She often gets ill on the bus, and the movies that are shown are often bloody and violent.

The problem was getting Eric moving Sunday morning. Maya was up early doing her homework and practicing violin. Eric made an arrangement to meet with his collaborators, and we left later than I wanted....but all went well. We taxied to Cumbaya, caught the bus, which turned out to be new and clean and not as smelly as I remember. 'Cowboys and Aliens' was playing, which frightened Maya terribly. We arrived at Papallacta before dark, and once we found our hostel only 300 metres from the road and dropped off our bag, we took bathing suits and towels and hiked up higher for what was supposedly 2 kilometers, but felt much longer. We spent a few hours in the hot springs until it was truly dark. I was almost too hot in the water, but very relaxed when we headed down the hill. It was cold and getting colder. It was amazing to see Antisana suddenly visible across the valley, magnificent and covered in snow.

We stopped at a restaurant 'Choza Don Wilson' for dinner, but after sitting down and getting a visit from the waitress, we were told there was no more food and we could not eat.  We were told to hike up the hill again, but our feet took us downward to 'Restaurant Quitenito'. An older lady invited us in, and we chose from all sorts of written signs distributed throughout the over crowded room. Maya had a chuleta (beef, not pork)- and Eric and I shared trout. It took long for the food to come, especially when another family came to order dinner, and our host became overwhelmed. she forgot the empanadas until the end of the meal, which we ate with 'hierba louisa' tea. Maya's lips were turning blue as she waited for her food.

When we got back to 'Hostal Coturpa', we were relieved to find three blankets on the bed and a heater. We all cuddled in together to watch movies and to sleep.

It was even colder the next morning, and getting out of bed was painful. The sky was full of clouds, and the tops of the mountains shrouded in fog. We hiked up to the 'termas' and then further along a rushing river, through several microclimates and changes in vegetation. The hike is familiar to us, I think we do it every time we are here. I looked for birds (too late to see many) and heard them in the trees, but did not get close enough to photograph any.  We could really feel the altitude; I was surprised that I had adjusted to the 9000+ feet of Quito, but here were up another 2000 or so, and hiking upward was tough. Maya was like a mountain goat, skipping along with ease!

Eric worked while Maya and I had massages at the spa. He was happy to have internet and the time to catch up on work he wanted to do anyway (rather than leave Quito).

When we returned to the hostel, the owner had much to say about the state of Ecuador, and engaged in a long conversation with Eric. When I asked about the timing of the buses to Quito, he told us they could come on the hour, 15 minutes after or 15 minutes before, or on the half hour, or anytime in between. So Ecuadorian; the bus would come at any point during the hour. We waited about a thirty-five minutes when we arrived at the bus stop, and again found the bus comfortable and clean. Except that again, the choice of movie (unavoidable, with two TVs and the noise blaring) was violent and disturbing, and even I had to turn away. The traffic was intense, and it took a long time to get back. From Papallacta, the bus first ascends to a pass, and after that gradually descends from the paramo through green fields and canyons. The view is stunning, and the ride a little scary, with all the wild turns in the road and incessant descent.

Eric asked Melissa and her student over for dinner, and I tried a quinoa soup that worked out well. I also made brownies which tasted like caramel, delicious, but clearly I need to learn how to cook at high altitude. Their consistency and look were not quite right. Less sugar, less baking powder, more liquid (including butter, which is a liquid when cooked) are the changes to make.

Hilary Hahn in Concert

Maya more than survived her chiva ride and had an 'awesome' time. She danced all night and enjoyed her friends. She could not top thanking me for letting her go. I was so very worried every minute she was away. I could not find a movie to watch and I was too anxious to eat in any of the many restaurants in the complex. There were few shops to browse in, so I chose to take the bus back to the apartment in the dark, which was probably inadvisable. I chose to take a taxi back, and met all the partygoers waiting to blow candles out and sing happy birthday. I met with Maria Paula's grandmother, who is closer to my age than any of the other parents. She works making explosives in Latacunga. When I said I had been to the Mama Negra Fiesta a few years ago and that our car had been broken into, she invited us to visit her in Latacunga and go to the fiesta with her and her family. Perhaps I will take her up on her offer.

Eric was staying an extra day in Baltimore to work on the house. Maya was up early working on her homeschool lesson. When she had worked enough and practiced her violin, we treated ourselves to her favourite pastry shop. The owner and 'artiste' is a Frenchman, and the chocolates and the concoctions are stunningly good. Cyrano's does not even rate. The bread actually tastes like French bread. Maya used her allowance to pay for a hot chocolate (thick, with cinnamon and spices) and a rasberry tarteleta.  The cost of every item is outrageous, but the cappucino is quite good, so I believe we will be regular customers.

Our adventure today was in colonial Quito. I brought Maya to a colonial art museum near La Merced. It was fun to share the experience with Maya. The highlight of the day was discovering in a tourist pamphlet that Hilary Hahn was giving a concert at the Teatro Sucre. I was stunned! We had just seen her in Baltimore a few months ago, she had studied at Peabody as had Maya, what was she doing in Quito? We bought the least expensive tickets, which were far too expensive for Qutio. and we discovered when we got to the theatre in the evening, that the seats at the top of the auditorium were packed, and the $100 seats in the orchestra were empty. At the last moment before Hilary came on stage, we were rushed down several flights of stairs to fill the orchestra. We had great seats, and Hilary was remarkably good, and the crowd was very appreciative. Maya was delighted to approach Hilary afterward, and tell her that she too studied at Peabody. Hilary asked who her teacher was, and of course knew who Rebecca Henry was. Maya was swooning.

We also ran into Maya's orchestra mate from FOSJE. He was in the older group now, and although conceded that there were problems with FOSJE, he was planning to continue with the group. Felipe had told Maya not to go with FOSJE, and her schedule is filled already, but maybe joining FOSJE would be a good thing for her. Clearly, things did not go well with Felipe and FOSJE! Politics, I believe.

Eric arrived at the apartment soon after we did, exhausted, but feeling good about his talk at NJIT, and the state of the house. Hopefully we will have the house ready to rent for October!

Terrified

Maya was invited to a birthday party today, and told me she wanted to go just as I was picking her up from the schoolbus and we were on our way to her ballet class. I wasn't sure I was comfortable with the concept; two and a half hours on a 'chiva' bus with a classroom of 12 and 13 year olds. I was so distressed I called Eric in Baltimore to ask his opinion, and he suggested that I go with Maya. I thought that was a good idea, so I rushed home and changed into presentable attire and rushed back through the rush hour crowds to get back to her ballet class. I did take the time to visit Isabel to ask her opinion, but she was not home and neither was Erika. I asked Isabel's exhusband what he thought, and he reassured me that with children and parents on board, and no alcohol of course, things would be fine.

I pulled Maya out of her ballet class later than I wanted to, and almost hoped we would not get to our destination on time. But we did, and when we saw no one in the Fybeca parking lot at Plaza de las Americas, I was almost relieved. But then of course, her classmates were there and very excited to see Maya. I asked Cathy, the mother of Maria Paula, if I could come along, that I was worried, but she insisted that there were enough adults and introduced me to her mother who was going along too. I could not then NOT allow Maya to go. So with trepidation, I said good bye.

And then I began shaking. A 'chiva' is a party bus, often with a live band and dancing to traditional Ecuadorian music. Drinking is a must on a chiva, but I am sure that children will not be drinking. However, one can easily fall off the bus, which has open sides and booms through town, inviting all to join in the party. What did I just do?

Plaza de las Americas is a mall with dozens of restaurants and a movie theater. It was packed with teenagers, and I remember that the first time I met Isabel, we drove to the mall to pick up her teenage son, many years ago. I could not stomach staying for two and a half hours at the mall, so I took a bus in the dark back to the apartment (NOT a good idea) and rushed up to my room, thinking I would eat something and go back to get Maya. Except that I am not supposed to go out in the night after dark, and I may not find a taxi, and I may get robbed, and Maya could be in danger.

She just seemed embarrassed by me. I pretended that I spoke no Spanish, and was worried about her and wanted to go with her. And now I am scared about going back. Not a good evening for me. Lots of anxiety. Eric won't approve. I just have to pray and hope that all goes well and that we are home safe and sound by 9.

My day was otherwise easy and comfortable. I waited much of the morning for a workman who was supposed to come by at 8:30 to fix the kitchen cabinets which had either fallen off or would not close
(I had to tie some shut to prevent the cat from having an extra feast). Of course, the workman never showed up. I am horrified at how much time I can devote to the news and the internet. I did manage to wash the floors, balance my checkbook, talk to Tara at length, and to touch base with Eric a few times. He is in Baltimore taking care of the house so we can rent it by the end of the month.

Finally, I could stay in no longer, but when I was ready to leave the apartment, the elevator was not working. I contemplated leaving by the stairs, but took care of more business details until the elevator was again functional. I was going to walk all the way to Casa de la Cultura again, but it was late, and I wanted to give myself enough time to visit the 'Casa de Alabada' near Plaza San Francisco. The museum has an exquisite collection of pre columbian artifacts (all from private collections, stolen no doubt, but now available to the public). I am entranced in the museum and the hours fly by. Before I was ready, it was time to take the Ecovia back to pick up Maya. My schedule is determined by dropping and picking her up.

It was a lovely entertaining day, until faced with the dilemma of the party bus. 

Clear Skies

I was worried when the ashes kept falling yesterday. With five months of drought, fires are raging daily, especially in the valley nearby. There were fires today, but they were small and the sky stayed blue and clear and gorgeous, with the sun shining fiercely. I love these blue sky days. The rain is supposed to arrive next month, and the locals are looking forward to it. The year we lived here was unusual, in that there was no rain all winter, which was lovely for me, but led to an empty dam and months of revolving power outages. A new hydroelectirc dam has been built, so 'apagones' are not expected, but the locals are tired of the dust and the fires and rain is sorely needed.

I slept well last night, so I did not have to sleep in and lose the day. I met with Gustavo for coffee, and we talked for hours, finally walking all the way to Casa de la Cultura. He is at university every afternoon at 5 PM, and is involved in student government. His family moved from 'Cinco Esquinas' to an area to the west of the colonial part of Quito, which is safer for him and his family. It was great for me to practice my Spanish, although speaking made me aware of all my errors and misuse of past and future. Time for Spanish lessons. I spoke to Amparo last week in the hopes that Eric and I can take classes together soon.

My visit to the Banco Central was focussed on Colonial Art, which is far less interesting to me than the archeological findings. I am uncomfortable with the history of the Spanish conquest and the treatment of the indigenous people, so even if most of the art was done by local people, I find the art inaccessible. There was a temporary exhibit of photos of Quito in the 50's and 60's, which was fascinating, because I knew most of the corners of the city that were photographed, and could see the amazing changes that have happened in the last half century. My father came to Quito in the early 60's, so I imagine he saw it as the intimate place it once was. There was a photo of Nixon in the back of a convertible, waving to the crowds -- that was a shock!

I had to rush back home to pick up Maya's violin and books and had a difficult time grabbing a cab from Shyris. I was worried that Maya would forget and take the bus, but we whizzed through town and I found her in her class, with instructions to meet me scrawled on her hand. We arrived at violin class far too early, so had Magnum ice cream in the hot sun until it was time for her lesson. I began to read her Spanish book while waiting, and found myself understanding most of it, and very much intrigued.

I am enjoying the kitchen and cooking. So far I have made 'locro de papa' and menestras and empanadas. Maya is tolerant of the food, but not thrilled.  I spend alot of energy keeping the fat cat out of the food. He has figured out how to open the cupboard doors, so I have to tie the doors closed. I have no idea what he gets into when I am asleep.

First Day

Today is the first day of my new life in Quito. The apartment is taken care of (first and last two months rent taken care of), Maya is happy at school and with her daily ballet and violin teacher, Eric is in New Jersey ready to deliver an amazing talk, we have reconnected with our closest friends here, the cats are comfortable in the house, I am taking care of my practice from afar....now what? My father asked me last night about what I planned to do while I was here, what my plans were for my life. I was not sure what to answer. I had truly not thought that far. Until we arrived here, I was entirely in denial. Moving from Baltimore, Eric losing his position at Hopkins (he still has a title in the Engineering and Neuroscience departments), living in Ecuador; nothing felt real, so I continued with my life as if nothing would change. I bought a new car, I took Maya to the SPCA to choose new pets, I planned a trip to Europe for the summer. I spent weeks packing up my room and my office and Maya's spaces, but I was in a trance throughout, not really conscious of the inevitable end of my life in Baltimore.

When Maya and I returned after our trip to Europe, I went to work, as if it was a normal return home to my usual life. Eric was going mad getting the house together, and I helped here and there, but I was not ready to move away from our lives, so I lived in a fugue, and missed the reality of our situation. I did not say goodbye to anyone. I was just leaving for a few weeks. Which is true in a way.

Flying to Ecuador, finding an apartment, registering Maya for school and dance and connecting with her violin teacher; everything has gone remarkably well. We are home now in Quito. What next in my life? Eric is busy with his science. I am home once a month for a week. Otherwise I am entirely free.

So with my first free day, without any pressing tasks or responsibilities, I slept in til noon. Not at all my usual behaviour. Perhaps I was just recovering from jetlag from two weeks ago....or from the daily pressures of our travel and arrival here, or  because I did not sleep well during the night.  Last night, Maya and I baked cookies and I almost burned down the apartment misusing the gas oven. She was terrified that we would be gassed during the night or that fire was imminent. Later, Eric was unable to make contact with a taxi company so we had to descend into the street (inadvisable at night here) and look for a taxi. There were none at Hotel Finlandia. Eric finally was able to talk to a taxi company. We all waited for a black Hyundai, which finally came to take Eric to the airport. When we returned to the apartment, we were somewhat discombobulated. Maya and I slept close together in an effort to feel safer. Quinn the cat got outside on the terrace and wandered outside all night but only after he ate all the bread hidden in the tallest cupboard; perhaps that is what kept me up all night.

Eric woke me up with a skype call after I failed to answer his countless emails. I was up and ready to move as soon as I realized how late it was. I decided to start my first true day in my new life with a visit to my favourite museum, or at least my first favourite, the Banco Central at the Casa de la Cultura. I was lost in ancient times and very comfortable there. I am not sure I am anywhere with knowing what I am doing here.

I was late getting to Maya. The Ecovia was full and I had to wait for a few to pass by until I could get on. Maya  was very resourceful in expressing herself to the guardia until I arrived. She is starting to use Spanish, which is a relief to me. I have tomorrow and the next days to figure out my purpose.

Slower Pace

I must get accustomed to a slower pace. I was up early to get Maya ready for school, but once she was fed and dressed and off on her bus to school, our lives slowed to a crawl. Coffee at Boncaffee and then another; after that, I am not sure how we wound through the morning. Eric worked on the talk he is to give Thursday in New Jersey on sustainability, and I tried to be helpful. I wondered how it was that in my real life, I am constantly running and moving mountains. Today I walked out on the terrace to look at the mountains and the clouds and the sky, and took a few photos.

I was antsy by midday. I think Eric can fiddle on his laptop all day. I insisted that we make a Megamaxi run, to buy a list of necessary items for the apartment.  That took an inordinate amount of time, as we worked through our extensive list, and the store is massive. It is odd how entertaining shopping can be when in a foreign store.

I was still agitated after feeding us lunch, so I convinced Eric to join me for a walk while he tried out his talk. He did not believe he could think while walking, but we worked on his delivery, and we walked the fifty minutes to the Mariscal. Plaza Foch was packed with tourists and locals, all ready for the Ecuador Uruguay game at 4:30. Eric's talk was truly coming together, so I felt useful. Eric's collaborator came to meet us with her student, but I had only a minute to be social before I had to catch the Ecovia in time to meet Maya and her bus. The Ecovia was packed, and it was a painful squeeze to get in and a worse experience to get out. I was relieved not to be robbed!

I decided to surprise Eric with his favourite soup, 'locro de papa'. He brought Melissa and her student to the apartment for dinner. It felt good to entertain in our new space, and I was relieved to have more than enough to feed five people. Eric had to buy more plates and bowls so we all could eat.

Maya wanted to bake cookies, so I almost burned down the house when I tried to start the gas oven, and then she was terribly fearful that the oven would misbehave. Eric flew out this evening to give his talk at NJIT, so Maya and I are alone for a few days with the cats. Quinn keeps trying to get into the garbage for an extra treat, so I am trying to ignore him while I fall asleep. The cats are a good thing; they keep me company.

Re Learning Patience

This week, and today in particular, has been a lesson in learning patience, ore perhaps I am relearning patience, which I learned the year I lived here, and lost in the two years away.

I have been without internet for a week. Days are defined by visits to 'El Espanol' to check messages at the office, or skyping patients or family, or keeping in touch with friends. Reading the titles of New York Times articles while Eric or Maya are catching up is my guilty pleasure. After the bus successfully picked Maya up, Eric and I tried to go to El Espanol, but it was not yet open, so we tried Boncaffee, the coffee shop we went to daily when we lived here. Usually I liked to look at 'El Comercio', the daily paper, but it was not available, and there was no internet in the coffee shop. There had been a favourite political magazine both Eric and I liked when we were here in 2009-10, but it was also nowhere to be seen. I wondered if the president of Ecuador closed it down, since it was very critical of him and he is not known to tolerate critical comments. This is ironic, in that he is protecting Assange and his right to free speech. We found another very bold article about Correa and his misteps.

The fellow behind the counter had worked at the Cafe when we lived here before, but he did not recognize us. I am sure that a couple of the customers did, but of course they all say hello and goodbye to everyone when they come and go.

The cable people were to arrive at 11, and they did, but they had all sorts of problems and stayed for hours to connect us. This is simply how things happen in our lives here. Sometimes people come on time, or they don't, and sometimes things are done efficiently, and sometimes everything takes hours and hours, and I am simply fine with that. I am certain I would not be fine with it at home in Baltimore, but here I am patient and calm.

 We were addicted to our computers for a bit, and soon Maya was almost home (except that the bus had a flat tire and came much later than expected.....Eric and I waited patiently on the street.  Maya was fine with waiting for the later ballet class. She seems very happy at school and I am so relieved. Eric and I are enjoying playing house in our new apartment.

Intro to Quito

Today was a good day to start exploring Quito. Isabel had told us about a new French bakery that had opened recently, apparently with the absolute best treats ever, so of course, we decided to check it out. Luckily it was just down Republica del Salvador past Portugal to Irlanda. We were a little skeptical; I insisted on trying the croissant to see if it was 'French' enough, Eric of course ordered a baguette (more expensive than one would expect) and Maya tried the pain au chocolat. Cappucinos were remarkably good, Maya ordered Mayan hot chocolate, which was made without milk and therefore thick and tasted of honey; it was hot and burned my throat, but was tasty. More important was that the bread and the pastries were excellent. A French pastry chef had taught his workers well. The rest of the cakes and pastries looked amazing. I will have to watch myself and not indulge too much. Last time I was in Ecuador, I enjoyed 'Cyrano's' far too much. Hopefully I will stay away from 'Cyril'.

Eric wanted to stay in the apartment and work on his talk, so we stopped at 'El Espanol' for internet and less than tasty coffee, and Eric bought some more 'carga' for his internet device, and Maya and I left him for colonial Quito. The Ecovia goes directly to the old town, and we were there in twenty minutes. The ascent to Plaza Grande was packed with people, both hawkers and customers. The main square was full of visitors, with a band playing the theme from the 'Titanic', prosytelizers telling us about Jesus and the bible, women selling ice cream, and boys trying to polish our running shoes. We had stopped at a mass at St Augustin on the way to Plaza Grande, and visited another church at the corner of the square, that is not often open, and quite lovely inside. I tried to make comparisons to the baroque churches in Rome, on which these colonial churches are modeled, but they are truly so very different and with an entirely novel feel. It was Sunday, so almost every open church had a mass going. 

We checked out a 'Diego Rivera' and 'Maya' exhibit at the colonial university, and then walked along to San Francisco, passing artists drawing faces and painting local scenery. The road was closed to traffic and full of local visitors. The 'papeleria' stores were open, and long lines of customers were waiting, presumably to buy school supplies. We passed my favorite museum, La Casa Abalado, and of course I wanted to go in, but Maya was not interested, so we checked out the new hotel on the corner. It had been under construction the year we lived here, but now it was new and gorgeous and likely outrageously expensive. At San Francisco square, we visited the main church and the Catuno chapel, and had to be quiet because masses were happening. Maya was most interested in the 'Tanguez' Free Trade store, still a rabbit warren under the San Francisco monastery, but newly painted and rooms added. I must remember to buy as many wonderful items as possible. I was so disappointed when we left Ecuador last time and I had always told myself that I would buy things but ran out of time and bought nothing. Of course, in an effort to avoid robbery today, I brought just enough money to last the day, and there was not enough to buy any souvenirs. We live here, and are not strangers to Ecuador, but we remain tourists.

I was starving, so we ate at the touristy restaurant attached to the store. The empanadas were good, but the sandwich unremarkable. Better to eat local. Maya wanted to get home to practice her violin (how could I complain about that?) so we found our way back on the Ecovia and were home in time to watch the sun go down at the apartment. It is Maya's job to make dinner tonight, the first real meal in our new apartment. We have movies at $1.50 each to watch tonight. Eric and I walked around the terrace to watch our view and take a few photos. We have a bit of a view of the mountains between buildings. I hear an occasional plane fly by; I did not plan for that, but there is a new airport ready to open next month, as long as the roads to the airport get finished (probably not), so perhaps the planes flying by will stop (not likely). We are very comfortable in our new home, and the cats are happy, getting into every corner to explore.

Sept 8

Maya was up early working on Lesson Six of her homeschooling program ( I am so impressed!), long before Eric and I awakened. Breakfast with the sun shining in was just perfect. Eric and I were slow moving, but there was a lot to organize in the apartment; most important was rescuing my computer, which had been dying for sometime and was imminently nearer death (I expected that; it is five years old and has been through many adventures). Eric wanted to back up my computer, but was struggling with his drives, and it would take a day or so to back everything up. Much time was devoted to getting the computers set up and working. 

We all walked to Quicentro for coffee and internet, and when Eric went to Isabel's to help fix their water pump, Maya and I wandered around the shopping center looking for a backpack and were held hostage in the food court with too much choice. Maya settled on vegetable risotto which was made with the wrong rice and odd tasting cheese, but tasty nevertheless. I love the yoghurt with fruit, usually served with yucca bread. We met Eric returning from a successful venture at Isabel's and after Maya finished her violin practice, she and I took the Ecovia to the Rio Coca bus station. Ihad forgotten that to get to cumbaya, it ws best to leave the Ecovia station and walk to the other bus station, so we wasted a lot of itme waiting for a bus to Cumbaya at the wrong stop, before I remembered where to go. Once we boarded the bus, off it went speedily to a hardly recognizable Cumbaya corner. A new shopping center had been built, and the circle that once caused enormous backups was gone. We walked down the hill to Maria and Hernan's house. Many new restaurants and establishments dotted the road, and everything looked better than ever. 

Noticeable was how dry the hills were, and how many fires had raged. I had read about one in the area around Puembo that had taken several days to control and had wiped out hectares of land. When we got to Maria's we checked out their blueberry crop, which had struggled through five months of drought. It was great to catch up with Maria, who was shocked that we were back in Ecuador. Gabriel had grown a lot, but Maya was a head taller. We caught up with news, and Hernan, Maria, and Gabriel all came over to our place for pizza and leftover birthday cake. We drank the wine that Isabel gave Eric for his birthday, and could have drunk more. What a wonderful change for us, to have a place to entertain. We missed that when we had our former Quito apartment. The cats area delight as well. They will keep us company especially when Eric is gone and Maya and I are alone.

Too much craziness

I almost forgot Eric's birthday, but started planning as soon as I could. I spoke to Erika and Stephania yesterday, who were concerned that Isabel would not leave the house, but she was enthusiastic and so the plan was on. I wanted to surprise Eric, so all day I tried to tell him that he needed to go to ISabel's to get on the computer, or to work with Eric. Finally I despaired, and told him we were going to do 'something' after Maya's dance class.

Getting Maya to school in the morning is an effort. I sent Eric to take her and talk to the authorities about transportation. My impression was that we had paid for it already, but I was surprised she was not on the list for the bus yet. Of course, we had only been in the apartment for one night, but it was time to make the transportation happen. Taking a taxi in the morning and evening to pick her up was not expensive, but took too much time, at least two hours a day….I enjoyed listening to the taxi drivers spout about politics, but that was no longer much of a draw for me. 

We had some yoghurt and Cyrano bread and nutella, so we had our first breakfast in our new home, bathed in morning sunshine and mounting activity outside. I was happy to get back  into bed after I saw Maya and Eric off. The plan was to meet at El Espanol for coffee and internet access, and this time, we did connect. I was busy getting through to the office and to Tara. The coffee is not really my taste, but I am getting accustomed to a different product than that in Italy or at Starbuck's. We returned to the bank to withdraw the hundreds of dollars to deposit. I had to speak to my bank first to ensure that I could take out the money. I had been blocked yesterday by the fraud department wondering what I was doing taking out $1500. Going to the ATM on Seis de Diciembre and taking out all that money was nerve wracking, but we got the proper amount deposited, and took the rest to Megamaxi to buy mats and cleaning supplies and food for the apartment. We had hardly enough time to drop off our purchases and dash off to the Magic Bean for lunch and another phonecall to Tara (I had promised to call her later…) I was embarrassed to talk and eat on Skype at the same time and resolved not to do that again. We rushed back to meet the cable representative (Blanca) who knew exactly who Eric was and remembered that he had not turned in the equipment when we left the other apartment, and would have to pay for it this time. Eric was just interested in internet, and apparently we would get it installed on Monday(perhaps).

The streets were full of yellow shirted fans on their way to the stadium to watch the world cup qualifying game between Ecuador and Bolivia. People were selling tickets, tshirts, wigs in yellow red and blue, noise makers and other paraphernalia. The food shops were full of people buying lunch and snacks before the event. The Naciones Unidas in front of Atahualpa Stadium was closed to traffic and packed with Ecuadorian football fans on their way to the game. I wanted to go, but had MAya to get to dance class, so I had to be content with watching the people show. That is one advantage to living here, there are always football games and we will definitely get to one these next few months. The Ecuadorians won and are on their way to the World Cup. 

Maya came home on the bus, almost too late to get to her ballet class. We took the local transportation to Rio Coca and although late, were in time for the start of class. I jumped right back on the bus to Quicentro to buy a new computer bag as a gift and to choose a cake for the occasion, which I delivered to Isabel's before picking up Maya. Eric showed up just as Maya and I arrived, and when he learned that there was no water in the house, began fixing the water pump. Everyone came home ready to go while Eric continued on his project. Finally, we had to drag him away for his birthday dinner. Isabel chose to take us to 'Baalbek', a Lebanese restaurant, which was a great choice. The food was delicious, and the company delightful. We had cake at Isabel's afterward, and of course, Eric had his face smashed in frosting. I think he was happy with his birthday, but was too tired to appreciate it. I was just happy to not have forgotten his special day!

New World

I was entirely ineffective in this move. Eric tells me I have been in denial for months. We ought to have packed and prepared over the past two years, rather than waiting these past weeks to empty out the house.  He points out that I bought a new car when I knew I was moving, but how would I know that we would move to Ecuador and New York? I also allowed Maya to acquire the two cats, hardly a good idea with the travel to Ecuador...

How we managed is unthinkable to me. I avoided everything by working in the office 13 hours a day for the past three days. Of course, it was necessary to work to earn money to pay bills etc, but poor Eric was left alone to move hundreds of boxes. I had packed through June and July while Eric was in Woods Hole, sorting through clothes and papers, and emptying out the top two floors of the house. I used plastic boxes and labelled everything and was so very proud of my achievement. But Eric had the main floor and the basement and the garage, which were overflowing. By the time I came home from my three weeks in Europe, he was in a panic, throwing everything without much thought into cardboard boxes. I could not bear to watch him and was relieved to be at the office. Maya visited with her friends, crying daily and missing her life.

The last twelve hours were intense. I finished at the office and came home to pack our bags for the trip the next morning. The house was a disaster. Eric hates packing the kitchen and complained every time I encountered him. I focussed on the packing and tried to ignore his pain. I could not help him, felt guilty and pained, but could not do it. The Bencichous came by for a visit at 10 or so, brought us ic cream and more tears for Maya. I dropped off my car at Emily's even later and continued puttering around with the packing until early morning hours. I finally fell asleep at 3 in the morning, not believing Eric would get it all done, and deciding that that was ok.

Eric woke us up at 6, but I had slept little anyway and was awake when he came by with a truck he had rented for a few hours. Maya and I were kicked out of the bed. I helped Eric pile the bed onto the truck. When he returned, it was too late for another storage run, so I insisted we clean up a bit and get the house ready for the cleaners....but soon it was time to go, with the car piled high including the two cats, which were coming with us to Ecuador (why in the world?)

Flying with the cats was easier than expected. The Delta agents in Baltimore were a little confused and reluctant, but once past them, security was interesting (Eric had to take each cat out individually, send their carriers through the XRay, then meet the carrier on the other side of the machine. The cats were quiet and well behaved. In Atlanta, we had to find a family bathroom to clean out Felix's cage, where he had had an accident. We were bumped up to first class between Atlanta and Quito, which was great for us (yeah, Delta) and Maya and I watched movies all the way. We had a famous Ecuadorian with us in the first class cabin, and dozens of reporters and photographers met us at the airport, but I never figured out who he was.

It was late when we landed. We got all the bags and cats through and met Erika at the other side of the barrier. She took the cats for a few days, and we headed to the Sierra Madre in the Mariscal. Too tired for thought or reason, we were asleep in no time. Eric had not slept for over 24 hours, I am not sure how he does that.

The sun was shining the next morning. We woke up after 8, but then I learned that Ecuador is one hour behind East coast time (perhaps because we do Daylight savings) and we were not too late starting our day. We taxied to Maya's old school, where she started the school day without much hesitation, and Eric and I got her registered. Everyone was delighted to see her, and she seemed comfortable too, although she speaks almost no Spanish. Eric and I spent the rest of our day looking for apartments in Republica del Salvador. It appears that rent is higher, as is occupancy. I decided more than ever that I wanted to live close to where we had lived before, and where I felt comfortable.  Before too long, I had to take a taxi to pick up Maya. We rode to Rio Coca to look for her dance school. It had moved to the same street that Isabel lives on, so we registered Maya for daily dance classes, and visited Erika and the cats, who were doing fine. Isabel was gone for the afternoon.

Maya was at school today, and Eric and I found an apartment that we like and that takes cats and will accept a six month lease. Yahoo. With a balcony and a little view of Pichincha. We decided it would work for us. Whew. I met with the mothers at ballet school, and caught up with the gossip, as if I had never left. We will move out of our hotel tomorrow, into our new home. I feel that everything is somehow unreal, that I am not really here....


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All Nighter