Four Seasons in a Day

Ecuadorian Cuisine

Carolina Christmas

Waking Up to Sunshine

Folkloric Dance, Fiestas de Quito

Back in Quito

Figuring this Out

My Oh My Back at Work Again

Back to Baltimore

Train to Machachi

Family Drama

More Bureaucracy

Bureaucratic Nightmare

Another day of frustration for Eric and I. Eric drove all the way to Yanayacu yesterday (four hours there) and all the way back (two hours at midnight). He dropped off his colleague Mel, her student Leeann, and another Ecuadorian student and all their equipment so they could start work on the wren project. They dropped by with crickets and fed them celery from our refrigerator - they are fattening up the crickets to feed them to the wrens they plan to catch. I was asleep when Eric arrived home, too tired to stay up and listen to the election results, and did not hear him come in.

While Maya was getting ready in the morning, Eric was anxiously getting his papers together for his Immigration Office visit. He was agitated and worried and not at all excited about another day of waiting and disappointment. As far as I understood, it made no sense for me to try to get my visa, because my passport was at the Brazilian embassy and Maya's officially stamped birth certificated had not arrived (Salt Lake was worried about this being a fraudulent request and were holding up sending it to us). Eric has only a few days left on his visa and so his situation is urgent.

When I arrived at my Spanish class, Eric was talking to Amparo. He had called a new lawyer, who was a friend of Daniel, a student who had worked with Eric last year at Sacha Lodge. He was planning to meet her and wanted to try to get my visa and that of Maya's as well. I went along although I suspected that without the proper documents, it made no sense for me to go, and I would rather stay and practice Spanish. Eric needed money in his account to show he could support himself in Ecuador, so while at the Spanish school, I opened an ING account, which would make it possible for me to transfer funds to his account anytime. My bank will not allow me to do so, thus with an ING account, I can transfer from wells Fargo to my ING account and then to his. It turned out that it would take four days for this to be possible, so opening up the account was no help to him yet. He actually asked his colleague to put the $1000 in the account so that he could print out the statement and use it for today at the Visa office.

We dragged Amparo along and walked to a notary to get my bank account and Eric's notarized. I was to apply for the visa separately, because we did not have a marriage certificate and therefore could not prove we were married. If 'living together', we could apply for separate visas. We met the lawyer on Amazonas near the notary's office and explained our situation and she agreed to help us. Our first stop was an internet shop where we printed off account information, filled out forms, separated our files (we need a 'carpeta' for each and separate information as if we were not together. I did not have my passport, so we had a notary sign for my passport and that of Maya's and for the two bank accounts. Eric had been to the Immigration office earlier and had '101' as his number. When we arrived at the Immigration office, his number had been called five minutes earlier so we had missed our slot. Amparo quickly got another number, '158', before the office stopped offering numbers. Whew. Crisis averted.

 At noon, Amparo left to meet her next student at the school while we waited. The lawyer slipped off to write a letter introducing my case (as different from Eric's) and then left again when she realized that it was better to address it to another official. I was stunned at the style of the letter, excessively polite and overly florid in the request for an extension of our tourist visa. I guess that is how it is done here, but the letter was embarasing. We were the last number to be called around 2 PM in the afternoon. My visa application was rejected because I did not have the special stamped birth certificate for Maya, and also because my bank account did not have my name on it. I was unsurprised. Eric's was rejected because our return date was in 80 days, not 91 to 180, and the visa we were asking for was for 3 to 6 months. Apparently there is no way to extend for just 60 days.. Our lawyer begged the official to overlook that item, but suddenly we found ourselves back at the internet shop where Eric changed the date on our return ticket in some magical way, we rushed back to the Immigration office and viola, Eric had started his visa process!

I paid the lawyer $50 for all her efforts (we were very appreciative) and stopped in at the internet shop again to call Salt Lake City and try to find out how to get the stamped birth certificate. We learned that although Eric had Fedexed and paid for the return envelope, the official in Sale Lake did not like the return address, so alternate arrangements were made, and we should have the birth certificate in a few days. Eric will use computer magic to add my name to my account (for security purposes the account does not have my name on it) and Maya and I should (no guarantees) have our visas next week. What a day. Bureaucracy!!!!!!!

Eric is entirely beside himself. He cannot tolerate this sort of frustration. He has been a bear about this for days. While waiting for our number to be called, he mentioned that this experience at the Immigration office has turned him off Ecuador completely, which is new for Eric, who until now has pushed to live in Ecuador forever. Perhaps I am less distraught about the process, because it is Eric who messed up and did not inform himself about the visa issues before we left, and because I am very systematic about getting things done and following instructions and completing tasks. Eric thought he could provide only a few items from the list of requirements for a visa and be lucky. He found out otherwise these last three visits to the Immigration office.

Watching Elections

I am switching from AlJazeera to BBC to Fox News to catch up on election news. It is remarkable how far removed we are from the US. Of course the results of the election affect the whole world including Ecuador. Most foreigners favour Obama, and most expect him to win. It is an odd experience to watch Fox news, which is far to the right, almost bizarrely so, and vehemently against Obama. BBC and AlJazeera try to be evenhanded and dispassionate.

I learned today again that it is better to be Canadian than American. Eric and I got all our papers together to get our Brasilian visa. Everything was smooth and easy and there was no line, a computer system that worked, we had all the papers we needed, and only had to go to a bank and deposit $65 for me (Canadian!!!!) and $160 for Eric and Maya. The Americans have imposed an equally tough visa cost, so the Brasilians are charging an equal and amount for US Citizens (reciprocity). I actually have a visa in my old passport from five years ago, but have no idea where my passport is, and am obliged to get a new one.

It was such a relief to experience the calm and peace in the embassy. Why is the Ecuador system so complicated? Eric's visa runs out in a few days and he will brave the immigration office tomorrow, pick up his number early, and wait with his papers and hope that the clerk that takes him does not change the rules again and compel him to get another paper/notarized document/stamped document etc. Maya's special stamped birth certificate should arrive in a few days so that we can try to get her visa. I have a little more time left, and hope that there will be no glitches for me. We are under the gun now, all running out of time, and uncertain as to whether we will in fact succeed with this elusive visa. I cannot believe that Eric spent a day in the Ecuadorian embassy in DC getting visas for the cats and never bothered to check to see which visa we would need. It never occurred to me to doubt him when he claimed we did not require a visa. He tells me the rules have recently changed.

I skipped my Spanish class with Amparo today. I am wondering if I ought to switch gears and focus on Portugese. We will be in Brasil in a month, I bought the Rosetta Stone course, and have yet to start working on it! 

Rain and Power

It was cold and rainy all day. This is so different from our experience in Ecuador 2009-2010, when it was sunny every day, and the winter rains never came. Of course, we had no power either; the Paute dam near Cuenca was empty and without water, there was no hydroelectric power, and therefore insufficient electricity. We received 6 hours a day of power, and luckily after a few weeks, the newspaper would announce which hours each area of the city would get power, so we could arrange our lives around those hours. We learned not to buy more food than we could eat in the day, not to stock up on anything that needed refrigeration. We had a gas stove, so we were able to cook, and we became accustomed to candlelight dinners.

Eric had a solar panel that we would drape across the east window in the morning and the west one in the afternoon, soaking up sun and power so we could run the internet and the computers. As long as we had computers and wifi, Eric was content. Many of the businesses near our apartment had generators, so we were able to go out to dinner or visit the mall if we needed more light. It worked out and was not a hardship and I cannot remember anything that felt too frustrating. It lasted for months and months and it was interesting that we adjusted and found ourselves complaining little through the ordeal. We learned that we could live without electricity for most of the day and be fine.

But the rains are here this winter, which is more usual for Quito, and I miss our hot dry winter. I do not like the rain, yet I know it is necessary for the agricultural industry, for the energy needs of the country, and is the natural order of things. It started raining in Cuenca yesterday afternoon and continued in Quito and through the night and into the day and the evening. I feel wet and cold and look forward to the sunshine which almost always shows up in the morning. Crossing my fingers.

Ingapirca

We were up early today, having breakfast on the terrace with the sun coming up. Our van driver arrived on time and we piled into the spacious vehicle and were off.  When we expressed interest in archeological sites, Fernando insisted that we visit 'Cojitambo', a Canar ceremonial center near Biblian, not far from Azoges. The roads to Azoges were closed because of independence day celebrations in the town, so we took unpaved backroads through farms and small villages, taking a few wrong turns until we reached our destination. The Canar thrived for a thousand years before the Inca came, and fought them furiously before they were subdued. They helped the Spanish fight the Incas later, and have always been a significant presence in Ecuador. They worshiped the moon and Pachamama amongst many other gods. The site was high on a hill with 180 degree views all around, with a small temple and the foundations of curved walls, which apparently are characteristic of the Canar architecture of the time.

Late, when we arrived at Ingapirca, it was clear which were Canar and which were Inca remains. We learned that the elliptical shape of the Temple to the Sun is unique across the Inca world. The shape was Canar, while the construction was Incan. The Incans allowed conquered people to worship their own gods, but built their temple to their sun god bigger and higher and more prominent than the other temples around. Ingapirca was a huge place, housing 200 priests and other people associated with religious concerns, with about 3000 inhabitants who lived outside the temple grounds. All sorts of artisans worked on textiles and gold and silver items, and palaces for the priests and young virgins who took care of the temple. I learn more each time I visit the most significant Incan site in Ecuador. While walking around Ingapirca, the clouds descended and we wandered through the mist to the 'bath' where the Inca sat surrounded by sacrificial blood. I like the back part of Ingapirca as much as the temple, where the face of the Inca appears in the rock.

Lunch was at the Posada Ingapirca, just as the rain began in earnest. We drove to Canar, where I remember being entranced with the energy and the brightly dressed women, but with the rain, the market looked dirty and bedraggled and it was not what I expected. We drove to another market nearby, which was bigger, but the rain made it unwelcome and we drove on.

We had no time for Guacaleo or Chordeleg, but visited a workshop where Ikat weaving, typical of the Canari, continued to be done on a backstrap loom, little different than a thousand years ago. We learned about the natural dyes used to make the weaving, and watched the process. The design is set before the weaving begins. It is rather remarkable. I have always loved the patterns, but had no idea how it was done.

The rain never let up, from Ingapirca to Canar and back to Cuenca and then to Quito. Our cats survived the weekend without us, and the apartment is still full of black and orange balloons and Halloween decorations, which will have to go, but not until tomorrow.

Cuenca Visit

I was looking forward to our Cuenca visit for weeks. I had such an incredible memory of our time there in 2009, and was determined that we would visit again for Independence Day. We were up at 5 AM Friday morning to catch our flight. Eric worked through the night on his computer and slept little. I was too excited to sleep, which was a bad idea, since we were to run about all day after our arrival. We  ran into Eric's colleague and her student at the airport, apparently they too were going to Cuenca.

We arrived at 8 AM, and dropped our bags at our hotel before heading out in the sunshine. Maya and Eric were hungry, so we ate at Raymipumbi in the central square, Parque Calderon. Eric's food was unclean, so it took only a few minutes after sending the food back before he was ill and visiting the toilet. We ran into Mel and Leeann and wandered into the cathedral, to the flower market and then to the river. Eric joined us after a while, as we checked out the 'Mercado de Artisania', a collection of crafts from all over Ecuador. The exposition has grown alot since we visited in 2009, stretching along the Tomebamba river on either side. I was excited to see different ethnic art, and there were some Bolivian, Columbian and Peruvian artists as well. The stalls were crowded with spectators, an there was music and all sorts of food stalls along the way.

We chose a restaurant near the Todo Santos ruins and had some Ecuadorian 'fusion' cuisine with lots of quinoa. Eric ate soup and kept it down. We all decided we needed a rest after lunch, and were able to get into our spacious third floor room, where Maya practiced her piano and I tried to write an essay about the 'Enlightenment'. We were happy with our hotel. Our evening was spent down in the 'Barranca' section near the river, where a crowd was celebrating the inauguration of a new walkway along the river. There were speeches and more speeches, how the Ecuadorians love to talk, and then an orchestra played with an accordianist and later a traditional singer. Gorgeous and familiar Ecuadorian songs filled the air after a spectacular fireworks display. It was shocking how close we were to the fireworks and how potentially dangerous they were. it was thrilling. The music was wonderful and I would have stayed longer except that we had all been up since 5 in the morning and Maya was falling asleep on her feet.

Breakfast this morning was on the third floor glass enclosed patio, which was lovely. We had to get to the parade on time in Parque Calderon. We were told it started at 9, but it was later of course. I loved the colours and the dancing and took oodles of photos. It was shorter and more professional than I remembered. The Cuenca Chola contestants were gorgeous, the costumes delightful, the experience quite wonderful. The rest of our day was frustrating. We had a great meal at a very funky place I remembered from our last visit (Cafe Eucalyptis) and then rushed to get to a folkloric dance and music event at Luis Cordero park. When we finally found the place, we were welcomed by the person in charge, but nothing was happening, and although we were told several times that things would be starting soon, after an hour, nothing appeared to be moving forward, so we moved on to a guitar performance that was to start at 3. By 4, it was obvious that noting was going to happen, so on we searched. Mel and Leeann decided to do a bus city tour, while Eric and Maya and I went back to the hotel to try to call Tara for her birthday. We were unsuccessful and disappointed. Later, we went out to find a 'castillo', but although we encountered stages at several places we were familiar with, we did not find a castillo. When we returned to the main square there were many people milling about,  many street performers, music acts, people selling snacks and kebabs, and unshaved hippies selling jewellery. We asked a policeman about the fireworks, but he said there would be none. We settled for traditional music and a kebab. Later when we were in bed I heard the fireworks go off and decided the policeman was wrong and that he just had no idea what was happening.

Correa was in town, but did not get out to speak to the crowds. That is not usual for him, so I am not sure if it is because he did not expect his usual support. When the parade was happening, I did see a group of his supporters waiting for his appearance in front of the city hall, but decided to watch the dancers rather than wait for him.

Although Cuenca is still a lovely town, with clean streets and well kept buildings, limited crime and too too many gringos, it was not as entertaining as it was last time we were here. It is more polished and the performances are more professional, or at least the ones we were at; the rap concert for youth and the amateur singing night was not fun to listen to. The wild 'pueblo' spirit has been replaced with a more mature and sedate tone. I guess we really missed our 'Castillo'. We must search for another opportunity to visit a wild and untamed crowd.