We were up early today, having breakfast on the terrace with the sun coming up. Our van driver arrived on time and we piled into the spacious vehicle and were off. When we expressed interest in archeological sites, Fernando insisted that we visit 'Cojitambo', a Canar ceremonial center near Biblian, not far from Azoges. The roads to Azoges were closed because of independence day celebrations in the town, so we took unpaved backroads through farms and small villages, taking a few wrong turns until we reached our destination. The Canar thrived for a thousand years before the Inca came, and fought them furiously before they were subdued. They helped the Spanish fight the Incas later, and have always been a significant presence in Ecuador. They worshiped the moon and Pachamama amongst many other gods. The site was high on a hill with 180 degree views all around, with a small temple and the foundations of curved walls, which apparently are characteristic of the Canar architecture of the time.
Late, when we arrived at Ingapirca, it was clear which were Canar and which were Inca remains. We learned that the elliptical shape of the Temple to the Sun is unique across the Inca world. The shape was Canar, while the construction was Incan. The Incans allowed conquered people to worship their own gods, but built their temple to their sun god bigger and higher and more prominent than the other temples around. Ingapirca was a huge place, housing 200 priests and other people associated with religious concerns, with about 3000 inhabitants who lived outside the temple grounds. All sorts of artisans worked on textiles and gold and silver items, and palaces for the priests and young virgins who took care of the temple. I learn more each time I visit the most significant Incan site in Ecuador. While walking around Ingapirca, the clouds descended and we wandered through the mist to the 'bath' where the Inca sat surrounded by sacrificial blood. I like the back part of Ingapirca as much as the temple, where the face of the Inca appears in the rock.
Lunch was at the Posada Ingapirca, just as the rain began in earnest. We drove to Canar, where I remember being entranced with the energy and the brightly dressed women, but with the rain, the market looked dirty and bedraggled and it was not what I expected. We drove to another market nearby, which was bigger, but the rain made it unwelcome and we drove on.
We had no time for Guacaleo or Chordeleg, but visited a workshop where Ikat weaving, typical of the Canari, continued to be done on a backstrap loom, little different than a thousand years ago. We learned about the natural dyes used to make the weaving, and watched the process. The design is set before the weaving begins. It is rather remarkable. I have always loved the patterns, but had no idea how it was done.
The rain never let up, from Ingapirca to Canar and back to Cuenca and then to Quito. Our cats survived the weekend without us, and the apartment is still full of black and orange balloons and Halloween decorations, which will have to go, but not until tomorrow.
Late, when we arrived at Ingapirca, it was clear which were Canar and which were Inca remains. We learned that the elliptical shape of the Temple to the Sun is unique across the Inca world. The shape was Canar, while the construction was Incan. The Incans allowed conquered people to worship their own gods, but built their temple to their sun god bigger and higher and more prominent than the other temples around. Ingapirca was a huge place, housing 200 priests and other people associated with religious concerns, with about 3000 inhabitants who lived outside the temple grounds. All sorts of artisans worked on textiles and gold and silver items, and palaces for the priests and young virgins who took care of the temple. I learn more each time I visit the most significant Incan site in Ecuador. While walking around Ingapirca, the clouds descended and we wandered through the mist to the 'bath' where the Inca sat surrounded by sacrificial blood. I like the back part of Ingapirca as much as the temple, where the face of the Inca appears in the rock.
Lunch was at the Posada Ingapirca, just as the rain began in earnest. We drove to Canar, where I remember being entranced with the energy and the brightly dressed women, but with the rain, the market looked dirty and bedraggled and it was not what I expected. We drove to another market nearby, which was bigger, but the rain made it unwelcome and we drove on.
We had no time for Guacaleo or Chordeleg, but visited a workshop where Ikat weaving, typical of the Canari, continued to be done on a backstrap loom, little different than a thousand years ago. We learned about the natural dyes used to make the weaving, and watched the process. The design is set before the weaving begins. It is rather remarkable. I have always loved the patterns, but had no idea how it was done.
The rain never let up, from Ingapirca to Canar and back to Cuenca and then to Quito. Our cats survived the weekend without us, and the apartment is still full of black and orange balloons and Halloween decorations, which will have to go, but not until tomorrow.
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