I was looking forward to our Cuenca visit for weeks. I had such an incredible memory of our time there in 2009, and was determined that we would visit again for Independence Day. We were up at 5 AM Friday morning to catch our flight. Eric worked through the night on his computer and slept little. I was too excited to sleep, which was a bad idea, since we were to run about all day after our arrival. We ran into Eric's colleague and her student at the airport, apparently they too were going to Cuenca.
We arrived at 8 AM, and dropped our bags at our hotel before heading out in the sunshine. Maya and Eric were hungry, so we ate at Raymipumbi in the central square, Parque Calderon. Eric's food was unclean, so it took only a few minutes after sending the food back before he was ill and visiting the toilet. We ran into Mel and Leeann and wandered into the cathedral, to the flower market and then to the river. Eric joined us after a while, as we checked out the 'Mercado de Artisania', a collection of crafts from all over Ecuador. The exposition has grown alot since we visited in 2009, stretching along the Tomebamba river on either side. I was excited to see different ethnic art, and there were some Bolivian, Columbian and Peruvian artists as well. The stalls were crowded with spectators, an there was music and all sorts of food stalls along the way.
We chose a restaurant near the Todo Santos ruins and had some Ecuadorian 'fusion' cuisine with lots of quinoa. Eric ate soup and kept it down. We all decided we needed a rest after lunch, and were able to get into our spacious third floor room, where Maya practiced her piano and I tried to write an essay about the 'Enlightenment'. We were happy with our hotel. Our evening was spent down in the 'Barranca' section near the river, where a crowd was celebrating the inauguration of a new walkway along the river. There were speeches and more speeches, how the Ecuadorians love to talk, and then an orchestra played with an accordianist and later a traditional singer. Gorgeous and familiar Ecuadorian songs filled the air after a spectacular fireworks display. It was shocking how close we were to the fireworks and how potentially dangerous they were. it was thrilling. The music was wonderful and I would have stayed longer except that we had all been up since 5 in the morning and Maya was falling asleep on her feet.
Breakfast this morning was on the third floor glass enclosed patio, which was lovely. We had to get to the parade on time in Parque Calderon. We were told it started at 9, but it was later of course. I loved the colours and the dancing and took oodles of photos. It was shorter and more professional than I remembered. The Cuenca Chola contestants were gorgeous, the costumes delightful, the experience quite wonderful. The rest of our day was frustrating. We had a great meal at a very funky place I remembered from our last visit (Cafe Eucalyptis) and then rushed to get to a folkloric dance and music event at Luis Cordero park. When we finally found the place, we were welcomed by the person in charge, but nothing was happening, and although we were told several times that things would be starting soon, after an hour, nothing appeared to be moving forward, so we moved on to a guitar performance that was to start at 3. By 4, it was obvious that noting was going to happen, so on we searched. Mel and Leeann decided to do a bus city tour, while Eric and Maya and I went back to the hotel to try to call Tara for her birthday. We were unsuccessful and disappointed. Later, we went out to find a 'castillo', but although we encountered stages at several places we were familiar with, we did not find a castillo. When we returned to the main square there were many people milling about, many street performers, music acts, people selling snacks and kebabs, and unshaved hippies selling jewellery. We asked a policeman about the fireworks, but he said there would be none. We settled for traditional music and a kebab. Later when we were in bed I heard the fireworks go off and decided the policeman was wrong and that he just had no idea what was happening.
Correa was in town, but did not get out to speak to the crowds. That is not usual for him, so I am not sure if it is because he did not expect his usual support. When the parade was happening, I did see a group of his supporters waiting for his appearance in front of the city hall, but decided to watch the dancers rather than wait for him.
Although Cuenca is still a lovely town, with clean streets and well kept buildings, limited crime and too too many gringos, it was not as entertaining as it was last time we were here. It is more polished and the performances are more professional, or at least the ones we were at; the rap concert for youth and the amateur singing night was not fun to listen to. The wild 'pueblo' spirit has been replaced with a more mature and sedate tone. I guess we really missed our 'Castillo'. We must search for another opportunity to visit a wild and untamed crowd.
We arrived at 8 AM, and dropped our bags at our hotel before heading out in the sunshine. Maya and Eric were hungry, so we ate at Raymipumbi in the central square, Parque Calderon. Eric's food was unclean, so it took only a few minutes after sending the food back before he was ill and visiting the toilet. We ran into Mel and Leeann and wandered into the cathedral, to the flower market and then to the river. Eric joined us after a while, as we checked out the 'Mercado de Artisania', a collection of crafts from all over Ecuador. The exposition has grown alot since we visited in 2009, stretching along the Tomebamba river on either side. I was excited to see different ethnic art, and there were some Bolivian, Columbian and Peruvian artists as well. The stalls were crowded with spectators, an there was music and all sorts of food stalls along the way.
We chose a restaurant near the Todo Santos ruins and had some Ecuadorian 'fusion' cuisine with lots of quinoa. Eric ate soup and kept it down. We all decided we needed a rest after lunch, and were able to get into our spacious third floor room, where Maya practiced her piano and I tried to write an essay about the 'Enlightenment'. We were happy with our hotel. Our evening was spent down in the 'Barranca' section near the river, where a crowd was celebrating the inauguration of a new walkway along the river. There were speeches and more speeches, how the Ecuadorians love to talk, and then an orchestra played with an accordianist and later a traditional singer. Gorgeous and familiar Ecuadorian songs filled the air after a spectacular fireworks display. It was shocking how close we were to the fireworks and how potentially dangerous they were. it was thrilling. The music was wonderful and I would have stayed longer except that we had all been up since 5 in the morning and Maya was falling asleep on her feet.
Breakfast this morning was on the third floor glass enclosed patio, which was lovely. We had to get to the parade on time in Parque Calderon. We were told it started at 9, but it was later of course. I loved the colours and the dancing and took oodles of photos. It was shorter and more professional than I remembered. The Cuenca Chola contestants were gorgeous, the costumes delightful, the experience quite wonderful. The rest of our day was frustrating. We had a great meal at a very funky place I remembered from our last visit (Cafe Eucalyptis) and then rushed to get to a folkloric dance and music event at Luis Cordero park. When we finally found the place, we were welcomed by the person in charge, but nothing was happening, and although we were told several times that things would be starting soon, after an hour, nothing appeared to be moving forward, so we moved on to a guitar performance that was to start at 3. By 4, it was obvious that noting was going to happen, so on we searched. Mel and Leeann decided to do a bus city tour, while Eric and Maya and I went back to the hotel to try to call Tara for her birthday. We were unsuccessful and disappointed. Later, we went out to find a 'castillo', but although we encountered stages at several places we were familiar with, we did not find a castillo. When we returned to the main square there were many people milling about, many street performers, music acts, people selling snacks and kebabs, and unshaved hippies selling jewellery. We asked a policeman about the fireworks, but he said there would be none. We settled for traditional music and a kebab. Later when we were in bed I heard the fireworks go off and decided the policeman was wrong and that he just had no idea what was happening.
Correa was in town, but did not get out to speak to the crowds. That is not usual for him, so I am not sure if it is because he did not expect his usual support. When the parade was happening, I did see a group of his supporters waiting for his appearance in front of the city hall, but decided to watch the dancers rather than wait for him.
Although Cuenca is still a lovely town, with clean streets and well kept buildings, limited crime and too too many gringos, it was not as entertaining as it was last time we were here. It is more polished and the performances are more professional, or at least the ones we were at; the rap concert for youth and the amateur singing night was not fun to listen to. The wild 'pueblo' spirit has been replaced with a more mature and sedate tone. I guess we really missed our 'Castillo'. We must search for another opportunity to visit a wild and untamed crowd.
No comments:
Post a Comment